In the Glass, 16 Dec. 2025: Cabernet Franc

Livermore Valley makes a statement with America's trendiest red variety

Living in the Mid-Atlantic and being a fan of Virginia, Maryland and New York wines, I am of course a Cabernet Franc lover. It’s the most consistent red grape here, and as viticulture has improved on the East Coast, the wines have only gotten better. More and more they prove wrong the misconception that wines from an unfamiliar region are by definition inferior.¹

Some of these may be Cabernet Franc. Who knows? Photo by Nick Karvounis on Unsplash

But does the East Coast needs to worry about losing the lead on Cab Franc to California — specifically, to the Livermore Valley? This area of the Golden State, best known for the Livermore national energy lab, is making a case for being a premier Cabernet Franc region.

A leading advocate of Livermore Franc is Steven Kent Mirassou. If you know California wine history, you recognize that surname. Mirassou is making excellent Cab Franc under his Steven Kent label and evangelizing Livermore’s Franc on his illuminating and opinionated Substack, “Wine Saves Lives.”

“There is a luxurious austerity to the Cab Francs from Livermore. Within them, to be sure, lives the barely literate, hardly domesticated Green Knight of herbal profundity that one sees in the coldest verges of Cab Franc plantings…the not-quite missing link between old and new world,” Mirassou wrote in October.

The best Livermore Francs may approach Mirassou’s accolade. There are still some struggling with ripeness and the region is not immune to a winemaker’s inherent lust for oak. But I’ve been impressed with wines I’ve tried recently and definitely will add Livermore Valley to my list of regions excelling in this grape variety.

Here are some Cabernet Francs I’ve recently enjoyed, from Livermore Valley, Virginia and New York.

Livermore Valley

Omega Road Winery, Cabernet Franc 2021, Livermore Valley, CA. 15.5%abv. Despite the alcohol, this wine tastes underripe. Crunchy flavors of tart cranberry are appealing but with some vegetal greenness underneath ending with an alcohol burn. That said, it almost works. A little more balance in the grapes — riper flavors with lower brix — and this could be a winner. ($38)

Darcie Kent Vineyards, Darcie Cabernet Franc Lemmons Vineyard 2023. 14.6% abv. Inky color. Ripe and supple, plush with black cherry, white pepper, Moroccan olive and bay leaf, this wine brings a smile and a reminder to slow down and enjoy. An appealing beam of red fruit shines through on the mid-palate, pulling the wine back from the brink of darkness. Lovely. ($30)

Almost Famous Wine, The Strong Silent Type Cabernet Franc 2021, Livermore Valley, CA. 14.3%. Screwcap. (6/30/25) Fresh, with flavors of baked dark fruit, Moroccan olive and tea. Good balance and texture, slightly rough, like wool or corduroy rather than silk. But who wants to wear silk every day? Almost Famous Wine is another brand from Darcie Kent Vineyards. On the company website, this is listed at $40, while Wine Enthusiast gave a price of $27.

Wente Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, Limited Release 2021. This label is ridiculously difficult to read, as it’s nearly-black ink on black paper, so I’m going to guess the abv is 14.5%. It tastes higher. Red and dark fruit, oak, mushroom, some savory earthiness, soy sauce, mushroom umami. Heavy bottle. The baked flavor speaks to a hot climate, and reminds me of Spain, perhaps Ribero del Duero or Toro garnacha. $50.

Murrieta’s Well Cabernet Franc Livermore Valley, 2021. California Certified Sustainable. 14.5% abv. Rich, dark fruit, somewhat syrupy in texture, on the sweet side of the flavor spectrum (without being a “sweet” wine). Quite decent. The 2022 is on the website for $70.

Steven Kent Winery, L’Autre Côte Cabernet Franc 2021, Livermore Valley, 13.5% abv. Lithe and juicy, with white pepper, black olive and tea flavors caressing a core of dark fruit. This wine shows a degree of energy that puts it a step above. As does the price: The 2022 is listed on the winery website for $125.

Virginia

Paradise Springs Virginia, Cabernet Franc, Brown Bear Vineyard 2023, Shenandoah Valley, 14.0% abv. This wine made the 2025 Virginia Governor’s Case, as one of the 12 top wines in the annual Governor’s Cup competition. It’s racy and fresh with bright Rainier cherry and raspberry flavors, spiced with white pepper and wild sage. $43.

Boxwood Estate, Reserve 2015, 10th Anniversary Vintage, Middleburg, VA. 13.5% abv. A blend of 48% Cab Franc, 25% Merlot, 22% Cab Sauv and 5% Petit Verdot. This wine has developed quite nicely, showing its age in brick color but still with lively black fruit and fruit compote flavors. Today, as Boxwood is celebrating 20 years, this wine is a fine testament to the quality of the first decade. (From my cellar; the 2023 is on the winery website for $65.)

Slater Run Vineyards, Roots 2020, Virginia. A stylish blend of 30% cabernet sauvignon, 24% cabernet franc, 23% merlot, and 23% petit verdot. Ripe, sweet flavors of berries, cherries and plums highlight a soft structure unencumbered by tannins. Moderate oak is well integrated. This limited production bottle is available to winery club members only. I was lucky to have someone bring a bottle to a dinner party.

New York

Dr. Konstantin Frank Cabernet Franc 2022 Finger Lakes. 12% abv. Gorgeous franc, with aromos of black olive, leather and tea. Flavors of dark fruit, cherries, plums, over a lithe and nervy texture. This is a prime example of the lighter body and style NY can achieve with CF compared to Virginia. The winery website is now on the 2023, at $28.

1. This seems like a silly statement, but I still meet people (usually older) who express this skepticism.