In the Glass, 23 May 2025

Traveling the world with a wine key, not a passport

Esporão is a leading winery in Alentejo, a region in central Portugal that has become a codeword for value, especially their Monte Velho line. Now they’ve introduced a reserve, at the whopping SRP of $18. It’s a great candidate for your patio cookouts this summer.

Esperão Monte Velho Reserva 2022, Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal. ($18) 13.5%. Esperão's Monte Velho line has long been a great introductory value for Portugal's wines; this first release of a Reserva just kicks it up a notch in intensity, with lots of dark berry fruit, some dried plum, cocoa, and a nice tannic grip to the finish. It's a blend of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Syrah and Trincadeira, and should improve over the next 2-5 years. Great value.

Forge Cellars Dry Riesling Classique 2023, Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes, N.Y. $26 (in Montgomery County, Maryland, so probably cheaper anywhere else). 12.1% abv. The Classique line is Forge’s regional blend, drawn from the various vineyards along Seneca Lake featured in its “lieux-dits” tier. This may be a new release - the winery website still shows the 2022, but I certainly wouldn’t shy away from the earlier vintage. This wine shows a deft mix of mineral and fruity character, with medium body and excellent follow-through, making it an ideal partner for a wide variety of cuisines and spices. Forge Cellars is a joint venture between Louis Barruol of Chateau Saint-Cosme and winemaker Rick Rainey.

Micro-Cosme Grenache-Pinot Noir Vin de France, $21 (again in Montgomery County, so you may find it for less elsewhere). Not vintage dated, it says "Mise en bouteille en 2024." The blend is 70% Grenache and 30% Pinot Noir. Spicy, dark hued, juicy flavors of red berries and baking spice. The label aptly suggests "gingerbread.” This is from Louis Barruol of Saint-Cosme winery, a top Rhone producer.

GC Wine Co. Gamay Noir 2022, Björnson Vineyard, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon. ($28) 12.5%. The winery website now shows this wine as out of stock, unfortunately, though I can understand why. Bright ruby hue, light color, fresh aromas of berries and wood. Light-bodied but deep in flavor, this is a lovely wine that rewards a slight chill and plays joyfully on your palate long after the sip is gone. Makes me wonder why there isn't more gamay planted in this country.

Boordy Dry Bench Reserve Cabernet Franc 2022 Catoctin AVA, Maryland. ($61) 14.1%abv. Stylish, plush with red and black fruit flavors, white pepper spice (might be too much for some) and drying tannins. On first impression those tannins seemed a bit astringent, but they softened with some time, so I suggest decanting an hour or two before dinner. The wine also developed nicely over three days, so don’t despair if there’s some left over. Better yet, save some for the next day.