In the glass, 7 May 2025

A new noteworthy NA wine, plus others ...

I cheer the growth of the non-alcohol (NA) wine sector, even as most of it still falls short of mimicking or tasting like the beverage we call wine. We need alternatives, for people who want to moderate their alcohol consumption for whatever reasons. Designated drivers at parties. Someone looking to reduce calories or alcohol consumption without being ideological about it. Wine lovers diss this trend, which is still very much a tiny part of the wine market, because NA wines don’t “taste like wine.” That’s a fair critique, but we should applaud the effort and progress toward “tasting like wine.” Bubblies have an advantage, as carbonation can mask other inadequacies.

Domaine EdeM N.0 RosAe, dealcoholized rosé sparkling wine. 0% abv. Spain. Domaine EdeM is a new label from the Catena, the first family of Argentine wine, as they enter the growing market for zero-alcohol wine. This is quite good — not that Ruinart Rosé will be threatened, mind you, but if you want a delicious, low-calorie, zero-alcohol alternative, this should be on your radar. It’s also a rare example when I read the description on the label and could do nothing but nod in agreement: “whispers of roses, lychees and citrus” pretty well sums it up. It’s made in Spain from airen grapes, typically used for cheap Spanish brandy. At $28 SRP, it’s also reasonably priced among higher-end zero-alc alternatives. It’s available at Wine.com and select retailers nationwide, and other N.0 wines are expected to be released later this year.

Longevity, Debra’s Cuvée Rosé of Pinot Noir 2023, California. 12.0% abv. Here’s another reason not to wave away rosés after their first year. Phil Long has crafted a tight rosé with a drying, bitter finish. To be honest, that bitterness bothered me at first, but once I tried the wine with food, the bitterness disappeared into a clean finish that helped refresh my palate for the next bite of food. And isn’t that the essence of what we want from a wine? (This was a sample from last year. I’m seeing $18 on Vivino, though it doesn’t specify the vintage and shows a different bottle and label.)

Pure Mirabeau en Provence Rosé 2024, Côtes de Provence. 12.5% abv. Mirabeau is the winery founded by British ex-pat Stephen Cronk, who co-founded the Regenerative Viticulture Foundation and is involved in the “1 Block Challenge” I wrote about last month. This is textbook Provence rosé, pale pink in color, vibrant with watermelon and wild herbs on the palate. Certified B Corp.

Monte Xanic Chenin Blanc 2022, Baja California, Mexico. 12.8% abv. I’m seeing prices as low as $18 for this online, though my recollection is a price in the $30s when I purchased this bottle back in January. (Where did I put that receipt?) If you can find it in the teens, buy a case - it’s delicious, with flavors of apple and pear and an herbal accent to the ripe finish.

Keswick Vineyards Viognier 2023 Monticello, Virginia. 12.7% abv. Lovely viognier, floral with jasmine and honeysuckle, peach blossom and apricot. This wine strikes a nice balance, off-dry and with just enough acidity to keep the wine in check. This still may not appeal to acid-focused somms, but then okay, more for us.